ONE EXPEDITION TWO SUMMITS

Cerro Plata (6050 m.) and Aconcagua (6959 m.)

Aconcagua via the false polish glacier traverse. Special departure for Finnish mountain climbers:    February  -  November 2008 - February 2009

The Aconcagua, 6.959.60 meters of hard rock. The Stone Sentinel. Located on the 70* west / 32* 40’ South coordinates, 12 kilometers from the border of Chile and 18 kilometers from the international route 7 between Argentina and Chile.

In this immense mountain it is possible to practice high-level mountaineering, interrelated with a big dose of adventure.  The Sentinel of Rock, sacred pyramid for the Incas centuries ago, still holds mysteries, and its magnificent silhouette holds the dreams of many mountaineers.

We are organizing departures from Mendoza for Finnish participants . The whole expedition from Mendoza to Mendoza takes 21 days.

We will first approach the Cordon de Plata for seven days to reach our first summit the Cerro Plata as a way to acclimatize for Aconcagua to familiarize with altitude and to interact with your fellow climbers on a mountain atmosphere. Then move to the Aconcagua area and after nine days reach the summit. The return is via de normal North western route by Plaza de Mulas and confluencia. The chosen route, the False Polish traverse, is not so frequented as the normal one and it demands a couple of days more. It is itself a nice route and very challenging.

The Plata Range (El Cordon del Plata) runs in Argentina North/South for a length of approximately 60 kilometres. It is divided into a northern, southern and central segment. This last segment is the most accessible and offers the greatest number of climbs. Cerro de Plata exceeds the 6,000-meter mark, another twelve are over 5,000 meters and there are a wide variety of summits over 4,000 meters. This climb can be done for the shear enjoyment of the peak itself and its beautiful surroundings, or as a means of training and acclimatization for Mt. Aconcagua as we will do.

No mountain can be taken for granted even by its easier route. Non-technical climb does not mean it is an easy one. We have very difficult non-technical climbs and Aconcagua is one of them. It needs to be taken quite serious, with the right physical preparation and mental frame of mind to overcome the suffering and difficulties that mountaineer somehow enjoy and look for it. The apparently technically easy way that this mountain presents for climbing must not be mistaken for an "easy mountain". Don’t assume that a serious ascent can be replaced by a simple trekking. This mistake has spent many lives, because the Aconcagua sometimes allows non-experienced and poorly equipped persons to arrive at relatively-easy-but-potentially-very-dangerous sites

It is definitely not easy. It is physically a very great challenge. It requires being both in the best physical shape because altitude is considerable, and very well equipped. It is not trekking. The ascent demands perseverance, continuous effort and certain speed.

Statistics show that problems and accidents can be kept to minimal when the expeditions rely on the leadership of a professional mountain guide. It is very important to deal with local guides. The guide deals with safety as a priority instead of focusing on the summit, as you will do. He will not take you to the summit, your legs, deep motivation and hard tenacity will; he will provide the safest possible conditions for you to make the summit attempt.

We provide the organization of the expedition and the company of Leonardo Bazzana, professional local Mountain guide, fully involved with the mountains of the area and with more than 15 summits of the Aconcagua by different routes. His team has proven to be an important factor to have a successful expedition.

Though we don’t guarantee the summit we do guarantee a safe environment to do the approach. As a normal procedure we ask you to sign a responsibility waiver disclaimer.

There are different ways to reach Mendoza (Argentina) from Finland. Via Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile. Both cities are linked to Mendoza by air or by bus. It has proved to be cheaper via Buenos Aires but fares change frequently it is better to consult your ticket provider before hand. Allow time for possible baggage delays. The ideal situation is to travel together from Finland but you are free to fly on your own and meet in Mendoza. We will need your information on arrival flight or bus to have you picked up. If you have time it is also possible to travel to Santiago de Chile and then by bus or private vehicle to Mendoza. Though is not cheaper it is a nice ride over the Andes.

We could also arrange for a before or after expedition stay in Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile.

Mendoza is a beautiful city, located at 760 mts above sea level, close to 2.000.0000 inhabitants by now, with an international atmosphere but a strong southern personality. Lovely weather between 25 and 32C, plenty of sidewalk cafes, trees, parks and being "Aconcagua base camp" a nice mountaineer’s soul is at place.

Its economy is based on agriculture, mining and tourism. The wine industry is also famous locally and internationally is quite appreciated.

Local changes during time of expedition may occur due to weather conditions and climbers physical and mental conditions as well.

We include: Assistance with the paper work to obtain the permits at Mendoza plus: Local Transportations, accommodations,  mules, meals, guides, assistants (1 X 5), cooks and assistants, Civil responsibility insurance mandatory by Law for Adventure organizers.

We do not include: Transport to/from Mendoza. Entry permit to Aconcagua. It depends on the season and activity. Personal equipment, food and beverages not included in the detailed program, Insurances, expenses due to voluntary abandon of the expedition,  personal expenses like phone calls, tips, laundry etc.

Prices, general conditions and Itinerary upon request

SUMMIT HUASCARAN

The second tallest mountain of South America and the tallest tropical Mountain of the World

Group and  Individual departures upon request from end of May until end of December according to weather conditions on the area.

Nevado  Huascaran is the highest peak in Peru 6.768 m.a.s.l. And one of the world's most imposing summits. It offers a challenging ascent requiring strong intermediate level alpine skills, and an unusual opportunity for climbers who want to make an ascent to very high altitude. Huascaran  position at about latitude 9 degrees south spares it from the extremely low temperatures and severe storms that are commonplace in the extreme latitudes. Huascaran, although of modest technical difficulty, is a mountain of Himalayan proportions. Huaraz is the city most utilized by climbing expeditions to the area, with relatively easy access to higher villages and towns. This area is the most popular climbing and trekking venue in Peru and the reasons for its popularity are clear: access to it is very easy, there are few bureaucratic problems, the climbing is brilliant, and the mountains are as beautiful as those found anywhere in the world.

We offer a basic 8 days (upon request) or a 15 days complete program to climb this mountain. We start with the acclimatizing trek to Churup Lake at 4.400 m. then we climb the Pisco mountain 5.720 m. and finally the HUASCARAN South 6.768 m (technique ascent).

INCLUDES: Two nights in Lima, double occupancy with breakfast included. Five nights in Huaraz, Tourist class Hotel with breakfast. Transfers in Lima. Bus from Lima to Huaraz and back.Transfer to and from locations. One day trek to Churup Lake with guide, equipment and lunch. Three days, two nights camping to climb Pisco Mountain with climbing guide, full board, horses or donkeys for the camping and complementary equipment, cook, and porter. Six days, five nights camping to reach the Huascaran Summit with food, high altitude equipment and the necessary items. Professional accredited mountain climbing guide. Entrance fee to the Parks.

DOESN’T INCLUDE: International Air ticket between Europe and South America.  Meals while in Lima and Huaraz except for  breakfast. Insurance of any kind. Sleeping bag, personal equipment, gloves, jacket, etc. Any expenses not included in the program as tips, excess baggage, phone calls, laundry etc.

PRICE AND ITINERARY UPON REQUEST

SUMMIT COTOPAXI

The World's highest active volcano

Departures  with a minimum of three participants can be arranged during the whole year

Individual departures upon request. 

To climb the Cotopaxi is not difficult, but it is considered technical because of the equipment required for the ascent.  Cotopaxi volcano is the Classic Ecuadorian Climb. We will spend overnight in comfortable and private campsite down in the valley and before midnight we start the 4x4 vehicle towards the parking lot and begin a gentle hike (30 min.) to the hut, then we join the normal route. It takes about 6 hours up to its summit. 

Climbing the gentle, curving snow slopes and skirting the massive rock wall of Yanasacha is unforgettable experience, and on arrival at the summit we will see into the volcano’s giant crater (800 by 600 m.) that produces constant emissions of gases and steam. 

During twelve days we will traverse the most spectacular landscapes and mountain profiles in Ecuador. All of the highest peaks of the famous “Volcanoes Avenue” will be viewed within the acclimatization trekking days. The possibility to summit Iliniza North (5.126 m) is considered. Condors, deer, wolves and other small animals are frequently found as well as tiny Indian settlements and evergreen valleys. This is a relatively easy going and scenery trek; it helps as training and acclimatization for the climb of Cotopaxi.

The best months to climb the volcanoes are November through February (the season of little rain and calm winds). May through September is the dry season; the winds are stronger in July and August. Of course the weather can change without warning, nevertheless we can say that, in Ecuador, you can trek and climb almost year-round.

INCLUDES: Round trip transportation (van/bus/jeep) to/from locations.Transfer in/out Quito, Bi- personal tents. Quality Mountain Meals (breakfast/box lunch, diner) during trekking and Climbing. Excellent group of mountain guides, all certified by the Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association (ASEGUIM). Trekking Gear (tents, dinning tent, chairs and tables set of dishes, silver wear). Five nights in Quito, Hotel Sierra Nevada with breakfast included. One night in an Old Typical Ecuadorian Hacienda.Visit of Quito,  Equator center and   the Otavalo Indian Market.Excellent stock of plastic boots, pitons, crampons, harnesses, ropes at your disposal with an additional charge. All equipment is guaranteed to be of brand name. National Park’s entrance fees.

DOESN’T INCLUDE: Air ticket from Europe to South America. Airport taxes upon departure from Ecuador (us 25).  Insurance of any kind. Meals while in Quito except for breakfast. Additional expenses  as tips, excess baggage, laundry, phone calls. Sleeping bag and mattress for trekking and climbing. Clothes such as windbreaker, wind pants, gloves, snow glasses, water bottle sun block, hat, etc.

PRICE AND ITINERARY UPON REQUEST

OTHER CLIMBING TRIPS UPON REQUEST:

CHACHANI, COROPUNA, MISTI: Near Arequipa, Peru.

ILLIMANI, HUAYNA POTOSI: Cordillera Real, Bolivia.

CHIMBORAZO, CAYAMBE AND  TUNGURAHUA: Ecuador 's volcano valley.

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